This fine, often-overlooked fish is admittedly a peculiar looking fellow. With its flattened and twisted face the fish looks like it’s been involved in a particularly nasty bar brawl. “You should see the other guy (fish)”. Anyway, that’s enough of that. It’s a great fish and there are some great brill recipes.
You can identify brill on the fishmonger’s slab by the complex pattern of brown spots overlaid on its pale cream coloured skin. It looks like some sort of effect normally applied to brickwork. The fish also has what looks like a fringe or frill close to its head. Interesting character, the brill.
Brill recipes
Brill makes for very good eating. All too often you hear brill and turbot mentioned in the same sentence. brill is championed as being just below the turbot in terms of quality but slightly more affordable.
Personally, I think the brill is a good enough fish on its own without having to constantly link it to the Turbot. The fish has already been robbed of its looks, let’s not steal its personality too.
If you can, buy brill big and treat it simply. By doing so, you will be rewarded. I try to avoid filleting flatfish, mainly because I’m a bit lazy, but also because I much prefer serving fish whole. Therefore, I would poach or braise a brill, but by all means, have a crack a filleting one and you’ll find some fine fillets.
Alternatively, brill can be cut into chunks or tranches. The benefit in doing so is that the flesh stays on the bone, keeping it nice and moist. Ask your fishmonger to do this for you. Watch how they do it, and then try cutting the fish into chucks or tranches yourself the next time you buy brill.
Brill-iant (sorry…)
One of my favourite recipes is whole poached brill with tomatoes, thyme and saffron from Mitch Tonk’s book Fish. You can read the Fish Face review of Mitch Tonks, or indeed, buy the book at Amazon . However, I also follow Jane Grigson’s advice by cutting the fish’s lateral line on the dark side and parting the flesh slightly.
Into the small gap I whack I some seasoning and a little butter. Admittedly, the result is a little too untidy to serve at restaurant level, but fine when you’re at home and concerned only about satisfying the rumbling in your stomach and not immaculate presentation.
Preparation
One last thing, don’t forget to scale the fish on both sides. Do it under running water and you’ll save yourself one hell of a mess.
Seasonality
Brill is said to be at its best from October to February. Avoid buying brill during its spawning season (April-June).
Sustainability
Read more on the latest Marine Conservation Society Good Fish Guide ratings.