Whenever people ask what my favourite fish is, my answer often changes. I find it a difficult question to answer, especially when seafood is so seasonal. A Red Mullet for example won’t quite cut it on wet Saturday evening in the middle of January, whereas a hot steaming bowl of Mussels will. However, ask what my favourite fish is when the sun is shining and I’m down a few glasses of cold Muscadet and I probably tell you that you can’t beat a good John Dory recipe.
The John Dory has to be the most unusual looking fish landed at our ports. Known also as St Peter’s fish, owing to the prominent black spot on either side of its body – said to be the fingerprint of St Peter – the John Dory has unmistakable looks. Its large head and miserable face doesn’t quite fit with its slim line body, while its large dorsal fin makes it look like a rebellious teenage punk.
Preparation and cooking
Despite its troubled appearance, the John Dory makes for fine eating. When cooked, its flesh turns pristine white and pulls away from the bone in large, delightful strips. It tastes simply wonderful, and unlike any other fish in the sea.
Of course, there is a downside to all this wonderfulness. The John Dory is an expensive fish and you don’t get a lot for your money. It’s a special occasion fish. Owing to this, I haven’t yet found the courage to fillet one in fear of making a mess of things. Fortunately, John Dory is great when cooked whole.
Smaller John Dory are excellent when simply grilled. For a larger fish, I tend to bake them, again in really simple fashion, salt, pepper and some lemon. I might throw on some capers at the end if feeling particularly extravagant. Whatever you do, do not forget to eat the cheeks – which, like Red Mullet, are arguably the best bit of the fish.
If your knife skills are better than mine then fillets of John Dory are excellent when fried or grilled.
John Dory recipes
If you’re looking for something a little more refined than my own suggestions check out Mitch Tonks, fish – the complete fish and seafood companion. It’s a great book generally, but also has three cracking John Dory recipes. The best John Dory recipe for me from the book is Roasted John Dory with Creamy Garlic Potatoes and, wait for it, salse verde. Dreamland.
You can read our review of Mitch Tonks’ book or buy it from Amazon.
Seasonality
Not a great deal is known about the magnificent John Dory. Its breeding season is thought to be June to August – so avoid buying then. In Poole, John Dory seem to start appearing at my fishmonger from early September.
Sustainability
Read more on the latest Marine Conservation Society Good Fish Guide ratings.