There comes a point each summer when sardines are suddenly everywhere - gleaming in abundance on the slabs of fishmongers everywhere.
The seasonal bounty brings low prices and a familiar problem: you end up with more sardines than you quite know what to do with. This is where a summer sardine escabeche comes in!
A gentle technique that turns a surplus into something quietly brilliant: fried sardines, cooled under a marinade of oil, vinegar, and softened onion, garlic and aromatic herbs.
It's sharp, mellow, and deeply satisfying - and excellent with just a hunk of crusty bread and a glass of something cold and dry.
The method has old roots - Moorish, Mediterranean, Iberian - with simplicity at its core. Colman Andrews (in the excellent Catalan Cuisine - available at Amazon) describes it as 'preserving in plain sight', and that’s about right.
This version keeps it simple: a bit of paprika for warmth, bay leaves and pepper for background hum, and onion and garlic for sweetness. It’s economical, easy to scale up, and simply perfect for a late summer's afternoon.
So if you’ve come back from your fishmonger with more sardines than you meant to (it happens), don’t panic. Put a few on the grill, and save the rest for this.
Rinse the sardines under cold water and carefully fillet them.
If you're not sure how to fillet a sardine then watch this tutorial.
Once filleted, pat dry. Season lightly with salt and pepper, then dust in flour. Shake off any excess.
Heat a couple of tablespoons of olive oil in a wide pan over medium-high heat. Fry the sardines in batches until golden and crisp on both sides - about 2–3 minutes per side. Drain the sardines on some kitchen paper and then place into a cazuela or casserole dish.
In the same pan (don't worry about cleaning out any burnt bits!), add a little more olive oil and gently fry the onion until soft but not coloured—about 4–5 minutes. Add the garlic and chilli (if using) and cook for a minute or so before adding the bay leaves and thyme.
Add the paprika and then pour in the vinegar and remaining olive oil, along with the orange peel. Bring to the boil, then immediately remove from the heat.
Pour the hot marinade over the sardines, ensuring they are completely covered. Season with a little salt and pepper. Cool to room temperature, then cover and refrigerate for at least 24 hours.
Bring to room temperature before serving. Excellent with crusty sourdough, a simple tomato salad and a chilled glass of your choosing.
Colman Andrews, in Catalan Cuisine (available at Amazon), suggests that sardines preserved this way should keep for at least a month if refrigerated.
However, this is such a tasty dish, we suggest eating it as soon as it's ready!
